India

20-2-1997, British Midlands: beautiful square plains of Netherland with houses, farms and nothing. How did those boundary crossing waves come into being? 737: slow check-in. Real English Breakfast (except for the toast). Air India: Private guidance to the airplane, that suddenly turns out to be flying to Delhi first. This way you come in certain places. Early rise: I'm going to become very tired, I think. I wonder how easy it is to get money in India (later observation: this depends on where you are. In Mumbai and Calcutta there are enough ATM machines {and an ABN-AMRO bank, which is my own bank} to make you happy, and they are all usable, but elsewhere there are only slow banks that accept only travellers cheques, and only after one hour of eleborate paperwork and waiting). The service (of Air India) is very good. According to some much can go wrong still (later observation: Air India is known for cancelling flights. None of my flights got cancelled, though. Others suffered very bad problems from Calcutta to Mumbai). I'm curious. The alps are below the snow below the clouds. Muqabla? (later observation: means contest. The description that follows is not of Muqabla, but of Indian popular music) groups of people dancing on a certain kind of music (crying?). Main character: the love between a man and a woman, the background always moving rythmically with them. Hm, after watching it turned out that the number one hit consisted of only men that sang `Chappa chappa' (later observation: this actually was one of the exceptions of Indian popular music. Most others are according to the scheme that was just written. `Chappa chappa' is about the border conflicts with Pakistan in Punjab, where I wasn't, fortunately. The music videos of Indian popular music are always part of the Hindi movies, which drive the music industry). Two times a full English breakfast, but now I'm in Delhi, which is very strange, because I want to go to Mumbai. And I do go to Mumbai, according to the crew there is a delay, but I didn't notice it yet, I'll see it when I arrive. Air India has in flight information, which is normally only available to the pilots (exact position, height, flight times, et cetera).

In Ellora I met two people from Canada, who were travelling through India in a big group, and living there. A lot has happened in the mean time: there was indeed a delay and a slow travel through immigration, but my luggage I found immediately afterwards (later observation: back in the Netherlands I was less lucky... I still haven't got my green bag yet) and Anutosh was also there. I did cash a travellers cheque at Thomas Cook and confirmed the flight to Calcutta. Then I went with the `auto rickshaw' to the station. From there with the train to Thane, the sun rose slowly and the smells of the slums were in the air. Then we took the bus and we were in a empty house with a mat and pillow. Six hours of sleep and then lunch at a vegetarian restaurant. After this the booking of a trip to Aurungabad and back to Mumbay taking all kinds of pictures. A walk to the sea and a very busy train. Then using the bus at night to Aurungabad, checked into a hotel there and immediately went with a regular bus service to Ellora. I'm now here, between the caves, tired, lots to see. What am I to do? Tomorrow to Ajanta, then back to Mumbai, in one way or the other. I'll see. It's getting more busy. I met people from Canada was amazed by the landscape, the people, the animals, the everything. This is amazing, and to be amazing they don't even have to carve these caves out of hard rock. Fortunately these caves are cool. Maybe I should go to sleep, but this is a place of possible thieves. No, I'll look at more caves and go back to the hotel.

But such a trip back to a hotel is an adventure in itself. No bus, and this brought me in contact with a strange method of transportation: a jeep with 17 people in it/attached to it. Sleeping leg, but in time, certainly for my new Canadese friends who needed to catch their train/plane. They knew a good restaurant in Aurungabad: Food Lovers. Buryani and Lassi, of course (later observation: I learned to hate these two dishes, that I found very tasteful at this time). Then to bed, to awake early in the morning to go to Ajanta. It's a reasonable hotel, though it could be better. Do I want to try the shower? It should happen. Just like a shave. It would be wise to do this tommorow morning, if I have time. 6:20 seems reasonable. There is television (later observation: but not adequate quality. Fortunately there where only very few mosquitoes, as there was no mosquito-net).

Day three: from Aurungabad (checked out just in time, after a shaving adventure and a shower adventure. To the bus station, where I also went to the toilet {also very difficult}). Then I met two people from Lithonia who were studying art and mathematics in India. I went to the Ajanta caves with them, saw these beautiful, incredible caves and went to Jalgoan: first by jeep to an inbetween stop, this time with 20 people. Then (also ate paratha inbetween, this time {previous time was in Ellora}) the bus to Jalgoan, everything together with my two new friends. I ate there something (rice with vegetables) and then booked the trip to Thane. I walked with them to the station, where they took the train. I waved them off. I wait now at the travel agency between the mosquitoes for the bus. It could take some time still: it's 19:22, and the check in time is at 20:30. But I'll manage. First mosquito-cream.

I believe that the fountain pen still works, even after the airplane. Funny. Anyway, I'm back `home', and am resting. My belly is a bit upset from the Buryani and the two Lassi's I just ate. One Lassi would have been more wise. I hope these are all the problems I'll get. The way back was horrible, the bus is an awful method of transportation. Video from 12:00 to 2:30 (Hindi movies are very long). The Berlitz guide may be small, according to me most things are in it, even though not everything is correct (later observation: this also has to do with the fact that it was from 1990). But still, no guide is able to prepare you for a journey like this. And all the advice from Europe is equally worthless, you know only once you went here, and not many people have.

25-2-1997: Again a resting day, still with a belly that is a little upset. Not bad, but I'm careful. No idea what one should eat, I'll see. No medicine yet, though, except ORS (later observation: I didn't use any of the ORS during the entire trip), if I can find some water. A weird insect is eating the door. The hanging bumps of moving insects in the caves of Ellora were bees, that could sting. Normally they wouldn't do anything, just like the bats. Pepsi cola helps reasonable. I talked with Gargi over the telephone. Gargi is a good friend of Anutosh.

Anutosh then explainted to be how to get to Mumbai centre. Yesterday and today: Mumbai. First yesterday in an attempt to remain chronological: first a small breakfast (the day before this one I had been ill {goodbye chronology). Then to the auto rickshaw to the station. This one wanted to use the meter, but I didn't fall for that. He unfortunately only spoke Hindi, so it was difficult to explain to him that I wanted him to wait for other customers. Eventually he got the message. At the station I slowly gathered a group of beggar girls around me, especially after I bought a first class ticket (Rs. 140). The trip was horrible: pressed flat between people and in Dadar the people at the back wanted to get out. Then I walked to the Citibank (with a bottle of mineral water) and then to the harbour, to go to Elephanta. That wasn't difficult: sufficient people wanted to take me there. I bought another two oranges (I'd bought oranges in Ajanta as well) before I stepped on the (leaking) ship and went onward with the company of loud Hindi music, past the war fleet and other harbour things. The island was filled with fresh wind and the possibility to climb up above the pollution (in the heat, however). The caves weren't very impressive, but had very clear notes. There was a canon from the first or second world war on `cannon hill', and a group of Indian people formed around me. One of them helped me later getting to Chowpatty beach, which was less impressive than the notebook told me. Back to the art gallery (where I'm now again) where I saw a number of expositions, one of which I bought a book (later observation: this book was in the lost green bag). When back `home'. On the way I also saw monkeys and ate many sandwiches and oranges. About the next day I alrady said most thing: I'm going to see the exposition again and will then go to the Prince of Wales. At the station is a slow burning fuse to light your cigarette (later observation: made of coconut rope). Weird. I ate: vegetable cutlets (vegetable burgers).

28-2-1997: Now I'm flying over India. I've got a slight cold (later observation: I still got it). I assume that the meals aboard an airplane are `safe', I hope that I'll get some orange juice. It's getting cold, but it will be warm soon. I hope the chocolate won't melt (later observation: it melted). I'll arrive early, probably, but that isn't bad. India i dry, mountaineous. I see all the british walk through this hellish area, hunting for tigers. Mountains of people. Anutosh was very nice. I make lots of social mistakes.

Now I'm in Balia. It's fun, hospitable, and weird. The trip to here was done my prepaid taxi, from the airport. Gargi gave me the address.

Market with chopping blad for birds and fluttering fishes.

Fish fingers, so weird.

Then I made a shopping list, and then I was ready for my first day in Calcutta: government buildings, a foot wound, temples, mosquitoes. The temples were very interesting with Kali (Kalighat is Kalicatta is Calcutta) and Krishna and such. I cut myself twice shaving, I got a biting healing balm. Now the two witches are preparing lunch (everything is called lunch). Lagbenna is not interested (also: darkarne). Mosha is mosquito, Pomfret is kind of fish. As you can see Bengali is a little like French (Pommes-frites, Darkannee, Mo chat). Today it's cloudy is warm. Not that is is every cold here. The people themselves are complaining about the heat. I don't notice any difference, but sleep with a blanket, so I won't notice.

Now Berhampur, the place where didi's mother is. Again a step back in comfort: it stays nice. There are more mosquitoes here than one person can dream. A huge cloud of buzzing insects. Today all shops are closed.

And now my camera broke. Maybe I can do something with glue, but not everything. It keeps breaking. Yesterday I saw lots of interesting things in these surroundings and bought postcards. I also was the main attraction for the local people. Not many white people come here. I also ate Chutney (very spicy), visited some people and saw the slaughter of a chicken, which I ate later. There are pretty birds here. Now I'm going to sleep again.

7-3-1997: Now I'm on the station of Kharagpur. I got a head ache and a cloud of mosquitoes. Today lots has happened. I've been to the computers, saw the campus, ate, also went through the adventure of getting mone at the bank. It's ok. I even got to send Email.

The night trip was horrible. Now I wait for lunch. It's better here in Orissa. My black pen suddenly works again. Red line, heat, monkey, jokes in bus, things, sleep, Orissa, Puri, sea, everything. Food, cats.

10-3-1997: And again a night trip. Also an eclipse and sun rise and sun temple.

And now back, a tiring trip. I feel myself become ill again in the Mumbai air, but soon I'll be away from that. I'm sleepy and slept well in the air bus. This is the last morning in India. The plane will leave in 1:25.